CTC Forum - MTB

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Updated: 1 hour 47 min ago

Pumping up 29er 2.4inch tyres

10 January 2015 - 11:49am
I'm wondering what to do,whether to buy Co2's for pumping up from flat in case of punctures then top up with an ordinary hand pump,or look for a high volume low pressure pump,what do others use.
Any ideas?

Re: Yak attack

10 January 2015 - 11:44am
Yes we watched it,it's no wonder he found it hard he's a big lad.The Nepalese and Japanese chap looked like dwarfs beside him.
He's one tuff cookie though.

AM enduro stage adelaide

10 January 2015 - 4:27am

Finally got a KOM on the AM enduro stage 3 in prospect hill woohoo

Hope u enjoy

Re: Yak attack

9 January 2015 - 8:24pm
On Freeview there is a Chanel 5+24. So it will be repeated at the same time tomorrow (Sat)


Yak attack

9 January 2015 - 8:12pm
Channel 5, just finished but you might be able to catch a repeat if you are lucky...do Ch5 have an iplayer thingy?

Anyway, not a bad programme following ex Welsh Ruby player, turned adventurer do the "hardest" MTB race on earth.

Re: New to mountain bikes but willing to learn

9 January 2015 - 4:40pm
Aren't Megarange 6/7 speed freewheels? A Galaxy made this century will have a cassette hub for 8 or more gears. I can't really see the point of Megarange now that 34t cassettes are readily available without the massive jump down to the low gear.

Re: New to mountain bikes but willing to learn

9 January 2015 - 3:28pm
Try fitting Continental Nordic Spike tyres [fully studded] and a Shimano Megarange rear cog and derailleur to your Galaxy.

Re: Replacing 7 speed wheel.

9 January 2015 - 3:20pm
If you like the 7 speed and/or don't want to upgrade the entire transmission, Rosebikes have hubs & cassettes. You could have them, or another wheel builder of your choice build up a new wheel.

Is eight years good for a £300 mountain bike?

9 January 2015 - 3:07pm
My own mountain bike is a double disc/suspension Land Rover G4 Challenge Expedition [used on the vehicle expeditions] model used every day and is now in it's eight year is this good? It has had new wheels and bits added yet has virtually no rust or corrosion.

Re: Replacing 7 speed wheel.

9 January 2015 - 3:03pm
Cannot fault my Halo Combat wheels from billys.co.uk This is an eight speed freehub rear wheel and will take a seven cassette with a spacer, mine has a Shimano Megarange Cassette. My only niggle was the axle needed a wee bit of tightening at the cones.

Re: Trail Manners?

9 January 2015 - 2:56pm
This is why I'm frightened of Lycra cyclists, though are not having a go at anyone here, here in my local wooded area was nearly wiped out along with a blind dog and lady dog walker by super arrogant mtb couple riding at A road speeds. Welcome to the sometimes sad brutal world of cycling. Hope it hasn't put your children off cycling and it sounds to me as if you are exactly the type of cyclist I like and want to meet!

Greetings from aus video

9 January 2015 - 11:58am
Hey guys just thought if show u what ur missing out on haha but seriously would love to come and ride in the UK one day!



Re: How limiting is a rigid bike?

8 January 2015 - 2:31pm
As the OP, some of the early posters were correct in guessing that my interests laid more in pootling off road touring than full on MTBing. For the past year or so I have been enjoying riding an old rigid Rockhopper for this purpose which has been great fun.

I thank all the posters for their responses and I particularly like some of the more adventurous pictures

Re: How limiting is a rigid bike?

7 January 2015 - 3:56pm
Watch out for narrow frames as these only take a 1.9 tyre size. Look for a bike with wide rear forks, you want at least the thickness of your pinkie on each side of the tyre at the bottom and top of the rear frame. Minimum tyre size is 2.10 for off roading, cheap bikes do not always take this size. For a mountain bike secondhand buy two as you can use the forks with suspension and a disc brake on the best frame, [one a non suspension frame, the other a rigid frame, combining the two makes a good mountain bike], the frame has to be the same depth at the forks as it a straight swap. Combining the two should result in a mountain bike with a hardtail, no rear suspension with a decent v-brake, Shimano Acera are cheap and fit a decent cable brake such as the Tektro IO or similar to the front suspension forks plus replace the disk with an Aztec or any decent make. Wheels can be got from woollyhatshop.com Shimano Megarange gears from sjsjcycles.co.uk- derailleurs and freewheels. For a good all round tyre try the Schwalbe Marathon Plus MTB, perfect for older bikes. E-mail me at womblebikesscotland@outlook.com for more help.

Re: New to mountain bikes but willing to learn

5 January 2015 - 1:42pm
al_yrpal wrote:If you have an Evans cycle store near you you can try a 2 hour free test ride on any bike by leaving them your credit card and driving licence in their special safe.

OP's nearest Evans is 15 miles away in Hendon. However, that branch is at the bottom of a hill so pretty good for measuring how potential purchases ride up it!

Re: New to mountain bikes but willing to learn

4 January 2015 - 3:05am
My route was very much along the line of Si's 'ride what you've got' rather than Al's £1k+ full sus suggestion. If going for the latter I strongly suggest you rent or borrow such a bike first to see it does offer you the benefits you want.

Re: New to mountain bikes but willing to learn

3 January 2015 - 3:45pm
Having had a few MTBs with and without full suspension I have the following comments.
Suspension forks need to have good damping, you dont get this on cheap ones. My first bike had cheap Suntour forks and the front of the bike would bob going up steep slopes, you had to lock the forks out to stop this happening because the bobbing sapped your effort. My second bike, a Cannondale Rush has excellent front and rear suspension. You dont have to lock out the forks when ascending because the damping is first class. The rear suspension on this bike is also great, particularly when ascending steep debris strewn paths. On a hardtail bike (one without rear suspension) the back of the bike will often bounce on hitting bigger stones, branches and twigs, this adversly affects grip and you can quickly loose momentum and get stopped. On a steep slope its often impossible to get started again, particularly if there is a lot of debris. A good Full Susser with properly set and decently damped rear suspension just rides over the debris very easily without losing much momentum and traction. Full suspension is well worth having IMO. But, you wont find decent suspension on cheap bikes. Paying £1000+ should get you a decent bike. Check out the MTB forum on Bike Radar for some suggestions on what to buy.

If you have an Evans cycle store near you you can try a 2 hour free test ride on any bike by leaving them your credit card and driving licence in their special safe.


Re: New to mountain bikes but willing to learn

3 January 2015 - 1:45pm
I've got a Trek Crossrip which I use in and around Herts; along country lanes/cycle paths etc, up and down hills and around the potholes. I agree entirely with Si about suspension: it is not only heavier but dampens the ride (if that's the right verb) unless you lockout the suspension and in that case what's the point in having it? You don't need suspension for hills, bridle paths, The Nickey Line and the like. I'm very happy with my Crossrip and there are plenty of other bikes available that are marketed as Cyclocross bikes but which are really "all-rounders" as they are great for roads as well as rougher tracks.

You've got a Cycle Surgery in Hemel, and I'd suggest popping into Leisure Wheels in the High Street to ask their advice.

Out of interest, did you go off the idea of building a "once in a lifetime custom expedition bike" that you had a couple of years ago?

Re: Lesser known hazards for off-road cyclists

2 January 2015 - 8:39pm
Incredibly nasty piece of machinery.

Re: Lesser known hazards for off-road cyclists

2 January 2015 - 12:44am
Strictly illegal. Vile things.

EDIT: Fixed link


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