CTC Forum - MTB

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Updated: 1 hour 40 min ago

Re: Replacing 7 speed wheel.

9 January 2015 - 3:20pm
If you like the 7 speed and/or don't want to upgrade the entire transmission, Rosebikes have hubs & cassettes. You could have them, or another wheel builder of your choice build up a new wheel.

Is eight years good for a £300 mountain bike?

9 January 2015 - 3:07pm
My own mountain bike is a double disc/suspension Land Rover G4 Challenge Expedition [used on the vehicle expeditions] model used every day and is now in it's eight year is this good? It has had new wheels and bits added yet has virtually no rust or corrosion.

Re: Replacing 7 speed wheel.

9 January 2015 - 3:03pm
Cannot fault my Halo Combat wheels from billys.co.uk This is an eight speed freehub rear wheel and will take a seven cassette with a spacer, mine has a Shimano Megarange Cassette. My only niggle was the axle needed a wee bit of tightening at the cones.

Re: Trail Manners?

9 January 2015 - 2:56pm
This is why I'm frightened of Lycra cyclists, though are not having a go at anyone here, here in my local wooded area was nearly wiped out along with a blind dog and lady dog walker by super arrogant mtb couple riding at A road speeds. Welcome to the sometimes sad brutal world of cycling. Hope it hasn't put your children off cycling and it sounds to me as if you are exactly the type of cyclist I like and want to meet!

Greetings from aus video

9 January 2015 - 11:58am
Hey guys just thought if show u what ur missing out on haha but seriously would love to come and ride in the UK one day!

http://youtu.be/lvgUW0dA-hk
http://youtu.be/w23qB1Wu4Aw
http://youtu.be/egFVOBopsj0

Corey.

Re: How limiting is a rigid bike?

8 January 2015 - 2:31pm
As the OP, some of the early posters were correct in guessing that my interests laid more in pootling off road touring than full on MTBing. For the past year or so I have been enjoying riding an old rigid Rockhopper for this purpose which has been great fun.

I thank all the posters for their responses and I particularly like some of the more adventurous pictures

Re: How limiting is a rigid bike?

7 January 2015 - 3:56pm
Watch out for narrow frames as these only take a 1.9 tyre size. Look for a bike with wide rear forks, you want at least the thickness of your pinkie on each side of the tyre at the bottom and top of the rear frame. Minimum tyre size is 2.10 for off roading, cheap bikes do not always take this size. For a mountain bike secondhand buy two as you can use the forks with suspension and a disc brake on the best frame, [one a non suspension frame, the other a rigid frame, combining the two makes a good mountain bike], the frame has to be the same depth at the forks as it a straight swap. Combining the two should result in a mountain bike with a hardtail, no rear suspension with a decent v-brake, Shimano Acera are cheap and fit a decent cable brake such as the Tektro IO or similar to the front suspension forks plus replace the disk with an Aztec or any decent make. Wheels can be got from woollyhatshop.com Shimano Megarange gears from sjsjcycles.co.uk- derailleurs and freewheels. For a good all round tyre try the Schwalbe Marathon Plus MTB, perfect for older bikes. E-mail me at womblebikesscotland@outlook.com for more help.

Re: New to mountain bikes but willing to learn

5 January 2015 - 1:42pm
al_yrpal wrote:If you have an Evans cycle store near you you can try a 2 hour free test ride on any bike by leaving them your credit card and driving licence in their special safe.


OP's nearest Evans is 15 miles away in Hendon. However, that branch is at the bottom of a hill so pretty good for measuring how potential purchases ride up it!

Re: New to mountain bikes but willing to learn

4 January 2015 - 3:05am
My route was very much along the line of Si's 'ride what you've got' rather than Al's £1k+ full sus suggestion. If going for the latter I strongly suggest you rent or borrow such a bike first to see it does offer you the benefits you want.

Re: New to mountain bikes but willing to learn

3 January 2015 - 3:45pm
Having had a few MTBs with and without full suspension I have the following comments.
Suspension forks need to have good damping, you dont get this on cheap ones. My first bike had cheap Suntour forks and the front of the bike would bob going up steep slopes, you had to lock the forks out to stop this happening because the bobbing sapped your effort. My second bike, a Cannondale Rush has excellent front and rear suspension. You dont have to lock out the forks when ascending because the damping is first class. The rear suspension on this bike is also great, particularly when ascending steep debris strewn paths. On a hardtail bike (one without rear suspension) the back of the bike will often bounce on hitting bigger stones, branches and twigs, this adversly affects grip and you can quickly loose momentum and get stopped. On a steep slope its often impossible to get started again, particularly if there is a lot of debris. A good Full Susser with properly set and decently damped rear suspension just rides over the debris very easily without losing much momentum and traction. Full suspension is well worth having IMO. But, you wont find decent suspension on cheap bikes. Paying £1000+ should get you a decent bike. Check out the MTB forum on Bike Radar for some suggestions on what to buy.

If you have an Evans cycle store near you you can try a 2 hour free test ride on any bike by leaving them your credit card and driving licence in their special safe.

Al

Re: New to mountain bikes but willing to learn

3 January 2015 - 1:45pm
I've got a Trek Crossrip which I use in and around Herts; along country lanes/cycle paths etc, up and down hills and around the potholes. I agree entirely with Si about suspension: it is not only heavier but dampens the ride (if that's the right verb) unless you lockout the suspension and in that case what's the point in having it? You don't need suspension for hills, bridle paths, The Nickey Line and the like. I'm very happy with my Crossrip and there are plenty of other bikes available that are marketed as Cyclocross bikes but which are really "all-rounders" as they are great for roads as well as rougher tracks.

You've got a Cycle Surgery in Hemel, and I'd suggest popping into Leisure Wheels in the High Street to ask their advice.

Out of interest, did you go off the idea of building a "once in a lifetime custom expedition bike" that you had a couple of years ago?

Re: Lesser known hazards for off-road cyclists

2 January 2015 - 8:39pm
Incredibly nasty piece of machinery.

Re: Lesser known hazards for off-road cyclists

2 January 2015 - 12:44am
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mantrap_(snare)
Strictly illegal. Vile things.

EDIT: Fixed link

Re: Lesser known hazards for off-road cyclists

1 January 2015 - 9:18pm
What on earth is a man trap?

Re: New to mountain bikes but willing to learn

31 December 2014 - 1:07pm
First thing to note is that you are not allowed to ride on a public footpath (unless you have gained permission from the land owner), but you are allowed on bridle paths.

If it's mainly for country lanes with a bit of cycle route and the odd BW then I'd say that you'll be wasting your money on full suspension (or even front suspension)....it'll just make the bike heavier, require more maintenance and give you very little advantage in return.

I think that getting some bigger, grippy tyres (cyclo cross type) for the galaxy ought to allow you to do modest BW work if you are happy to go at modest speeds.

New to mountain bikes but willing to learn

31 December 2014 - 11:11am
Hi,
I'd like to buy myself a QUALITY mountain bike over the next 12 months or so (2 years at the most) and I'm open to suggestions. I intend to use the bike mainly for commuting to/from work on country lanes with the occasional riding on shared cycle routes/public footpaths in Hertfordshire. There are also lots of hills so lightwight steel would be good. What are the best tyres and wheels for this kind of terrain.
I'd also like a full suspension model and my budget is around £2k. I'm 6' 2" tall and my first question is what frame size to choose?I obviously need to test ride a few bikes so if anyone knows of any knowledgeable bike shops in the Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire or central London I'd be grateful. Also what magazine would everyone recommend for mountain bike newby like me.
Any questions please ask away.


PS. I'm riding a Dawes Galaxy touring bike at the moment and I wonder if I cant maybe adapt that (IE better tyres (Marathon Plus at the moment) in the meantime but thats a seperate topic.

Re: What's wrong with the Schwalbe Marathon Plus MTB?

30 December 2014 - 9:16pm
Hi,
If your are talked into a full MTB tyre (Title post) for on / off road then it will be more comfortable off road.
BUT it will be slower on road and off road and it will give less grip on the tarmac, and it will wear out very quickly.

Take your choice.

The title post tyre resembles a motorcycle "Motor Cross" Tyre, which is pretty useless on smooth surfaces, and will only out perform a standard trail tyre on grassy fields very deep mud and sand.

All the MTB guys use aggressive tyres which match the body armour and full suspension..............................

Tyre fling is what is used to shed debris from the tyre on a motorcycle, but only under power where you spin the rear tyre whilst moving and the centrifugal force removes the debris and when the tread comes back round to the ground the tread is free of what it picked up last rev and thus is fresh to give max grip.
The front tyre will bog down in the mud and make steering heavy and it will have a mind of its own which will then throw you off.
When you power the rear wheel and sit back the front wheel clears the mud and you then steer with the back wheel by moving your weight side to side, the front tyre glides across the top of the mud / loose surface.

NIETHER of these methods works on a human powered bike for obvious reasons, so an aggressive tyre does not work except on those surfaces that I have already mentioned.

Good luck looking hip and going slower than a shopper bike

Re: Dog walkers or horseriders?

30 December 2014 - 4:21pm
Sorry Lycra cyclists as they cycle flat out in heavily wooded areas, which not only nearly knocked me off, there was also a lady walking a blind dog, which they nearly hit and the cyclist were in pairs. My number one is sheep as they run towards you down to the road from the hills on unfenced roads!!! Coos that defecate and urinate on you if you stop to close behind when going to the farm for milking, have seen one poor cyclists being a victim, be warned coos see backwards!

Re: Entry Level Mountain Bike £300-£400

30 December 2014 - 4:15pm
Have a look at the Revolution range from edinburghbicycles.com

Re: tyre difference

30 December 2014 - 4:12pm
Stick to the much lighter Schwalbe Energizer Plus tyre for e-bikes which is also suitable for mountain bikes as well as hybrids. You could also try the Continental E-Contact or even the Schwalbe Marathon Plus as e-bike tyres are not that heavy if you use the right ones and are perfect for heavy mountain bikes used on the road. Do not like the Tour pattern as the simpler original is a far better tread and do not find it heavy either. All Plus tyres are a doddle to fit compared to Ralston MTB tyres!!!

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